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Before you head out on the epic cross-country trails we’re blessed with in the Southern Lakes* or sessioning the world-class bike parks at Glendhu, Skyline, or Coronet, there are few things you should check on your bike to make sure it’ll go the distance and be safe for sending it. In this article we’ve going to cover a lot of ground to make sure you’re prepared for an awesome mountain biking season. Here’s your checklist – followed by a deep dive into each of these check points: 

  • Brakes 

  • Tyres 

  • Suspension 

  • Drivetrain 

  • Bolts and Fastenings 

  • Wheels 

  • Seats 

  • Cables 

  • Bearings 

  • Linkages 

*Our epic trail network is the product of local people who volunteer their time to the trail building and maintenance organisations shown below. We're proud to support them all with a donation of $2.50 from every bike hire at Outside Sports. We'd also like to acknowledge the long-term commitment of the Queenstown Lakes District Council, Mackenzie District Council, and Southland District Council to extending and maintaining the trail network on public land. Thank you! 


A Deep Dive Into Your Maintenance Checklist

1. Brake Pads and Rotors 

The first stop on our checklist is your brakes 😁. Brakes are your first line of defence against mishaps, and strong brakes help give you the confidence you need to progress your bike handling skills in tricky terrain. 

  • Make sure both the front and rear pads have at least 1 mm of material left 

  • Look for glazing on the rotors which can spoil braking performance 

  • Check for contamination on the rotors from oil or brake fluid 

  • Make sure that the brake rotors are straight and free of grooves or scratches 

2. Tyre Wear and Condition 

Next have a very close look at your tyres to make sure they’re still up to the job. Tyres provide friction against the tail for braking, and traction for climbing and cornering.  

Check for excessively worn tread, which can make your tyres a lot more susceptible to punctures, lessen your security and control on corners and make climbing harder – especially in loose gravel or mud. 

Check for damage to the tyres like cuts in the sidewalls, which weaken the tyre, and can contribute to punctures 

Tyre rubber has a fairly short life. After a couple of yearsit starts to dry out and becomes brittle. Small cracks in the tread and sidewall are a sure sign that your tyres are too old and need to be replaced.  

3. Setting Your Tyre Pressure  

At Bikes By Outside Sports we're frequently asked ‘what pressure should my mountain bike tyres be?” The answer is - 'it depends.' Tyre pressure depends on your own preference and the terrain you’re riding on. Rider weight has an impact too. The heavier you are the higher the pressure needs to be to support the tyre. Higher tyre pressures also reduce rolling resistance, while lower pressure lets the tyre spread out more to increase its contact patch, giving you better grip and control on technical or loose surfaces. 

Hardtail bike riders tend to run with less pressure in their tyres than people with full-suspension bikes because they rely on a softer tyre to absorb the bumps. 

Tubed tyres need to run higher pressures than tubeless tyres, because higher pressure in the tyre helps prevent pinch flats. 

Having said all that, we do have some ‘rule of thumb’ pressure suggestions: 

Tubeless tyres 

Front: 25psi (1.72 bar) 

Rear: 27psi (1.86 bar) 

Tubed tyres 

Front: 33psi (2.28bar) 

Rear: 35psi (2.41bar) 

Hardtail bikes 

Front 22 to 28psi 

Rear 24 and 30psi 

Full Suspension bikes 

Front 24 to 30psi 

Rear 26 to 32psi 

For rocky or uneven terrain, a hardtail rider might run 23psi front and 25psi rear, while a full-suspension bike rider might run 25psi front and 27psi rear. On smoother trails, your pressure could be bumped up by 2–4psi front and rear, for both bike types. 

4. Tubeless Sealant

If you have tubeless tyres pre-season is the time to top up the sealant, as what's in the tyre might have hardened over the winter. The effectiveness of sealant depends on its ability to freely spread itself around the inside of the tyre to plug up puncture holes.

3. Suspension 

Check for oil leaks, sticky operation, or strange noises. Update your sag and rebound settings for your weight and riding style. We talk about sag and rebound in this article from our bike knowledgebase. 

Wipe off any oil marks and dirt build up. Re-grease all lube points – we can do this for you (see our workshop services below)  

4. Drivetrain - Chain and Cassette  

A worn chain can slip under load, break unexpectedly, and cause crashes. Make sure the chain isn’t showing signs of wear, is clean of dirt and gunk, and is lubricated properly. And by properly we mean a tiny droplet of chain lube on each link. It's easy to over lube your chain, but that will just turn it into a dirt magnet – speeding up wear and making quick, clean gear changes difficult. 

Check the cassette for broken or worn/bent teeth. Worn cassettes are anotherverycommoncause of chain problems and skipping gears. 

5. Bolts and Fasteners 

Vibration cause bolts and screws to loosen. Go through your bike and use a torque wrench to tighten stem, handlebars, crank, pivots, and brake rotors to the manufacturer’s specs. Using a torque wrench stops over-tightening, which can damage fastenings and hinder the smooth operation of the components. 

6. Wheels and Spokes 

Spin each wheel andlook for wobble. Loose or damaged spokes should be tightened or replacedimmediately. Trued and tensioned wheels track straight, roll faster, reduce stress on suspension and hubs, and are generally much more pleasant to ride on. 

7. Bearings in Headset, Bottom Bracket, and Hubs

Check everything that spins or rotates on your bike for smoothness or excess play. Worn bearings make bikes feel sloppy and unresponsive, and they can fail without warning to leave you stranded or even have a crash. Clean, regrease, or replace anythingthat’s not working as it should. 

8. Frame and Suspension Linkages 

Inspect your frame attachment points and pivot points for cracks, stress marks, or excess play. Linkages or pivots points that aren’t solid and secure can lead to frame damage and poor handling characteristics.  

9. Cables, Housing, and Hydraulic Lines 

Check all cables and lines for fraying, rust, kinks, or leaks.  

10. Seat 

If you have a dropper post,make sure it moves smoothly and quickly. If it feels sticky or sluggish, you might want to see us about a cable or hydraulic service. 

Get a Pre-Season Service at Bikes By Outside Sports

If you’d like to be 100% that your bike is ready for action we recommend a professional pre-season service at Bikes By Outside Sports, either in Queenstown or Wanaka. Ask around - we’re rated the best bike workshop in both places. We have three service levels to choose from:

Green Service - $69*

  • Safety Check – All bolts, pivots and quick releases checked and tightened
  • Gear Adjustment – Hanger alignment, barrel adjustment, limit screw adjustment
  • Brake Adjustment – Caliper alignment, rotor tweaks, barrel adjustment and spring adjustment (non disc)
  • Chain Lube – Removal of superficial lube and dirt from chain, re lube
  • Tyre Inflation
  • Assessment/Recommendations

Blue Service - $125*

  • Green service plus:
  • Wheel True and Tension – Wheels removed from bike, trued and spokes tensioned
  • Drivetrain Clean – Cassette and chain removed from bike, cleaned and degreased along with chainrings

Black Service - $180* (Hardtail), $240* (Full Suspension)

  • Green and Blue service plus:
  • Hub Service- Inspected and adjusted
  • Bottom Bracket Service – Removal, clean and regrease
  • Headset Service – Clean and regrease
  • Pivot Service (Dual Suspension only) – Pivot bolts removed, cleaned and regreased

You are also entitled to 15 % off parts with any service, helping to make a professional pre-season TLC session at Bikes By Outside Sports convenient and cost-effective.  

Book your pre-season service at Bikes by Outside Sports in Queenstown or Wanaka

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